Finding Many Gifts in Garni

“Sometimes the best gifts aren’t wrapped in paper or bought at a store, they’re found in the unexpected moments and connections along the way. In this piece, I share a spontaneous trip to Garni that gave me more than just a beautiful handmade carpet. From the warmth of a local family to the quiet beauty of village life, my journey through Garni turned out to be filled with many gifts, each one a reminder of the simple, powerful moments that can inspire us.”

It was the summer of 2024 when I decided to take a short excursion out of Yerevan and head to Garni, a beautiful village in the Armenian countryside, nestled along a gorge about an hour away. This trip had a purpose. It wasn’t just about escaping the city for a day; I wanted to visit the Garni Crafts Center and, hopefully, meet Carl Ulbricht, whose name kept coming up during my local craft research.

Carl is a London-born lawyer who relocated to Armenia and brought the Garni Crafts Center to life. I had heard so much about the work being done there, especially their handmade carpets, rugs, and textiles, socks, hats, scarves, blankets, all of it. I was excited to see it in person.

Now, anyone who knows me, knows I’m a planner. A project manager by trade, I spent years in the corporate world mapping things out down to the smallest detail. But this day trip? Total whim. No plan. No appointment. I just felt like going, and so I did.

I decided to take the local bus. Not a tour bus. The kind locals use every day. There were two buses involved, and honestly, that was half the fun. One was an older bus that runs between Yerevan and Garni all day long, bouncing through potholes and stopping wherever needed. It was the perfect chance to sit with locals, people-watch, and get a real glimpse of daily life. I loved that part. The bus was mostly locals, with maybe one or two other tourists quietly venturing off the beaten path.

Was I a little nervous leaving the comfort of the city? Absolutely. I had only been in Armenia a few months at that point, and traveling solo still felt unfamiliar. On top of that, I couldn’t quite pinpoint the Crafts Center on the map. But my wife had called ahead and confirmed they’d be open, and that felt like enough. I remember thinking, Alright—time for a little adventure.

After two bus rides and just over an hour of travel, I arrived near the 1st-century AD Hellenistic Temple of Garni. Once off the bus, I wasn’t entirely sure where to go, so I stopped at a nearby local eatery where they were grilling fresh chicken and pork khorovats. The owners were incredibly kind and went out of their way to help me, despite the language barrier, pointing me toward the footpath through the village streets that would lead me to the Crafts Center.

My first impression of Garni was how quiet and beautiful it was. No city hustle, no rush. Just green everywhere: fruit trees, gardens, fresh honey and beekeeping, bits of farming, animals in yards. I remember picking fresh cherries straight from the trees as I walked. The path led me along a quiet road near the gorge and past a cemetery. That’s where I noticed a woman sitting on a chair outside the gate of a home, just waiting.

As I passed by, tan wide-brim hat, very American-looking clothes, she immediately knew I was the one she was waiting for. With her were two young children, happily playing nearby. We didn’t share a common language, but it didn’t seem to matter. She asked and directed me to come inside the gates with open arms.

I explained, as best I could, that I wanted to see the Garni Craft Center and was learning rug weaving. Carl and his family weren’t home at the time, but that didn’t stop her. Without hesitation, she led me through the property. I didn’t know exactly where I was going, but I trusted her.

Then I saw it: looms, wool, carpets, rugs. I knew I was in the right place.

The woman, whose name is Karine, along with the two children (who I later found out are her grandchildren: Karina and Deren), showed me their handwoven carpets. She was a weaver, and the kids were also weavers, proudly showing off their work. The carpets were beautiful. I ended up purchasing one, still the only carpet I’ve ever bought (see photo). It was handmade by Karina herself, and I was pleasantly surprised how someone so young could make such a beautiful carpet.

I spent about 30 minutes with them, talking, watching, learning. It was special because I had no idea what to expect when I set out that morning, or who I would meet. It was special because Karine and the two children were absolutely some of the most beautiful people I have ever had the pleasure to meet; so warm, so friendly, so open and so enthusiastic.

I never did meet Carl or his family on that trip, but I’ve since met him (and his lovely wife) many times at craft shows, galleries, and industry events in Yerevan. He’s incredibly active in Armenia’s craft and textile world and deeply supportive of weavers, yarn producers, and the industry as a whole.

I’m not sure Carl realizes how meaningful that small trip was for me. It showed me how open-hearted and welcoming people can be. It reminded me that support doesn’t always require words, and that even without a shared language, people can connect and make things work. It showed me the quiet charm and beauty of Garni and what village life in Armenia really feels like.

Most of all, it reminded me of the gift of presence, of childhood innocence, of kids playing freely, of moments without plans. Just being there, exactly where you’re meant to be.

Of Special Note:

You can visit the Garni Crafts Center online in Facebook.

Check out the photos below, I just love how Garni Crafts Center integrates both wood and wool in their designs.